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: I have almost never seen any other symptoms for a dead/dying cell other than a false low (or zero) salt level, or a brown discoloration on the connector itself. Any help? 5. If you hold on to the varistor lead while trying to unsolder it, you will sink all the heat from the iron and it will make it almost impossible to de-solder. then go out. How do I check Varister with readings should I get any Idea so I can make shore this is my problem. Once, my salt readings were going down quickly and got low enough for a “low salt” warning – (even though the salt tested at 3400), and after a careful inspection of the inside of my SWG, I discovered that there was a buildup of minerals, but only where the cord connects inside the cell. You COULD also use a T-Cell-5 with your existing board. Any suggestions? Totally different animal and display. It really is rare to have to replace a replacement board within it’s one year warranty. I messured it and it is open. I didn’t get the same symptoms last time, it just quit, so don’t count on exact symptoms either. White to Ground: 121.9 AndyW, First off a big thanks to Russell and all of the others who have contributed to this site. I started my search in looking for a cheapier supplier for a replacement board when I came across this article. i have the same story as everyone else. The wire may get warm but shouldn’t get hot. We just experienced the same thing over the weekend. The pool shop wanted $320 for a new board. Works great! Good luck. Ordered the varistor and swapped it out and the generator is working perfectly! HOWEVER, your info is great and I will use it to repair the damaged board which has the exact symptoms you mentioned. The burn marks are around and on the back-side of one of the pins to a black component which lies immediately to the right of the two brown cylinders. Great posts!! Also, everyone should be aware that the Aquarite behaves strange at temperatures between 50 and 6 degrees F. The manual says that chlorination is reduced by 20% (of the setting) at those temperatures. email me at [email protected] and I will send you a detailed manual. Salt Solutions also offers a advance replace repair option (CORE). Yes! I replaced the varistor last night and started it up and as soon as the unit started generating, the check salt and check cell lights came on. If you have an unused Aux relay, you can try moving the light wires there (leaving them attached to the same breaker), and see if it still trips. Wasted $20 bucks on resisters and sodering kit I couldn’t use. I am having problems with my Aqua Rite controls and T-cell 15 without Aqua Link. Display board does not appear to be getting any power. when Iron is hot, hold to solder point at bottom side of board. All that’s working on the display unit is the power LED with no others coming on or off at all and the cell is not generating. We’ve been fighting this all summer and, one morning I went out to visit the outside Aqua Rite controller and found that the green “generating” light was not lit. Thanks for your blog! One of them was 0.0. So just ordered a few more for the next time(s)…. would really APPRECIATE some help..need to find a new board, howver, mine is 5 yrs old and the numbers don’tmatch up with what some suppliers have..where are you all getting your boards? PEOPLE! I’ve only seen one Aqua RIte in 11 years that the issue was the motherboard and not the display or fuse. Thanks for your comments – this could save me from a lifetime of drinking heavily by my pool pump. I measured across RZ1 and it also reads 0.0 Ohms. Did you try changing the fuse? You can email the info to DoneIt at GoldlineControls dot info. What are the other options. It did not stay and made contact with the board. Hello Russell, Thank you so much for writing this post. Notice you are in Montreal. Call us at (405)381-3971. or visit www.haywardboardrepair.com The plastic tube inside the flow switch was gone. I use a good pair of scored, flat plyers and brace the board on a relay or one of the big brown capacitors and gently wiggle slightly side-to-side to remove them. Thank you for this invaluable information. The readings on the LCD were: I noticed that there is now a buzzing sound being generated by the Aqua Rite panel. Cell voltage 28.7 Did you check the date code on the strips? I hope you read this soon. Once you go there, you’ll see the Dealer Locator Link on the left, on the bar. MUCH different. It may be draining back down (with gravity) overnight. Shipping cost more than the part..:-) if it fixes it who cares… the 200-300 pcb replacement doesnt enthuse me nor does replacing the box.. will update progress .. After consideration I would imagine this occured last fall as the east coast got hammered by a variety of storms but didnt realize… wish me luck…. Really helps me in my old age! SKU: 700161441352 Category: Products we repair. You think they could make these things modular and thus cheaper to replace individual parts. I cleaned the T-15 cell. I would never have been able to diagnose this myself. My pool is between 20,000 and 25,000 gallons and I have a T15 cell. Victor, see reply to your post number 240. Need a vacation, I can hook you up, Russell, Russ, I am trying to hook up my aquarite to my automation system. I purchased 4 thermistors from Newark supply for a total cost of $9.22. It started with an error message on the display which read something like “low volts.” After reading this string, I opened the case to inspect the PCB and noticed a burn mark in the upper right-hand corner. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! GLX-PCB-RITE 110 volt AquaRite System Board - blue. Make sure it is fully seated. Thank God I found this fix. Ugh This school teacher can’t afford that LOL. You can lose as much as one part per million of chlorine. You want to put the pool in spa mode? I probbaly could have had it done in 20 minutes, but my soldering iron didn’t seem to heat up enough, or as fast as some others. Ordered new AS32-2R025 (DigiKey 570-1105-ND) and everything works again. Then I found your site, purchased the vasitor from Digi-Key for $5.44, and I am up and running. Salt strips are made that are VERY helpful to avoid oversalting and double-checking your system (warning: manufactures state that their calibration may be off by as much as 500ppm and be “within range). Red to Ground: .001 Here are the readings from my display: One curious problem: when I turn off the Mineral Springs system at the switch, the system does not appear to shut off. The pool is only 14K gallons, but it appears that my panel has the old (2008/earlier) firmware, so I can’t buy a T-Cell-3 @ $215, I’d have to buy a T-Cell-15 for around $500 (give or take a deal I might find). Find your Aqua Rite electronic chlorine generator isn't working properly and/or has no indicator lights? The lights will also come on every 500 hours of operation to prompt you to inspect the cell if you haven’t recently. I bookmarked this page about 2 years ago as we had just purchased a pool home with an almost identical salt system. Without doing the research, I’m guessing you may have a new board on which they’ve placed an “improved” heftier device. Hi and thanks for posting this information about fixing your aqua-rite system. I can only turn the system off at the circuit breaker. The V150LA2P discs on my board are burned. The original thermistor was supported above the board by two small metal collars that were just short of 1/4″ long. (Extra time required…Industrial Engineer…soldering skills never a forte’). THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO SHARE THIS ON THE WEB. Is there a site I can go to to get some prints? Thank you for such a clear and concise write up. I have excellent “flow.” Replaced the flow sensor (still “no flow” light remained illuminated). Called local pool company….Yep..you know whats coming next…”why Mr. Valentine that will be $450…at least”….So now I am picking my self up off the floor…telling the wife..ah oh…then we come out to the back to sit by the pool and google boards and prices. Is it possible we have a bad cable? Anything repairable on the cell? I’ll replace it and we’ll see. This information is excellent. after mis-reading the service bulletin on the fuse change, i inadvertantly pulled the orange wire off it’s post on one of the upper junctions and don’t remember where it was supposed to be. I like taking LOTS of pictures. Thought maybe varistor is bad again so i replaced it again because i bought some spares. Taking it apart showed no additional burns or anything, and the varistor also looked and felt perfect. The whole process took about an hour & a half to pull everything apart, unsolder, re-solder, install and recalibrate. The unit price was $2.64. We should not have to fix this ourselves. You saved me a lot of money. Unfortunately, my varistor was intact, so I decided to replace the entire main circuit board. On the right side, select Chlorinator Cell Tester or something to that effect. It came in 3 days. I’m no EE, just a telephone man with a triplett. So if anyone has any think they can think of before i buy a new PCB it would be appreciated. Mine is a Rev E mainboard, installed in 2003. Glen, sorry I don’t remember getting any notice of your post! Add To Cart. I may have some useful info for you, and an unorthodox offer or solution. I just fixed mine but the Salt level isnt calibrating is says the salt is 2600 so i added a bag and i am going to let it run for 24 hrs then try to calirate my cell chlorinator . if any body can not find the part i have 8 extra ones SL32-2R025 i had to order Ten buy them e mail me at [email protected]. Mark, thanks for adding more to the troubleshooting process. Here’s what we do now: We keep the SWG at 40% and run the pump DURING THE DAY (important because we keep the pool covered and the hot water sits on top and algae flourishes there.) I will now sleep peacefully for the modest sum of $42 per month. But alas…. Excellent pictures and directions! Hayward Aquarite Goldline GLX-PCB-RITE This is the main printed circuit board Aquarite, Naturesoft, Mineral Springs, or Nature soft. Thank you Mike. I’m guessing that one of two things might be the problem: 1) the burn on the varistor pin also burnt off the plastic coating and some of the copper on the board – is this a irreparable thing? Pool temperature 91Fahrenheit Thanks, fixed my problem fine for under $10 !! Software Revision: R 1.33. That’s the job of the flow switch. Also,the Generator light continuously keeps flashing ,any hlep or advise would be very much appreciatd.Neil. after pool had turned off. Once I received the varistor, I removed the old one and replaced with the new one. PER HOUR under the right circumstances (low/no stabilizer is a large contributing factor). I just have to add my thanks as well. I haven’t, but I might be due to one or more of the varistors shorting out. Temp: 97 It may take a few tries. Next day, we unplugged the cell. ), except once it shut down, it did not resume the second hour and in fact, the diagnostics display showed 0 volts, 0 amps, 64 degrees, 0 salt and stayed that way the rest of the cycle. Perhaps a mistake? I had a heck of a time finding the plastic standoffs for the display board. I have the same thing going on in Jupiter. I took my power washer to it and while it got it off with less noticeable damage to the pool surface, the plaster that washed off clogged up my sand filter, so I had to replace the sand because even backwashing didn’t help. Having the same issue as John C (Post #96). bottom left = EMPTY The pump continued to run, but not the SWG. I was interested in Russell’s comment that he has to add chlorine in the summer. Your home test kit may not be able to test for Total Chlorine, but your local pool store can! The SWG is running great lately and reverses polarity just fine. Could someone offer me instructions on how to solder the Varistor to the board? Mark in Florida. I have replaced the varistor twice in the last 3 years, savings hundreds. Now I realize that having higher levels of chlorine in a salt pool makes more sense and because it is a salt based system, you do not have the same issues (green hair, itchy skin, etc). i called him back out and he said the board was bad. 1. I replaced the varistor using the great instructions Russell provided, but my problem persisted. Thank you so much for documenting this. Here’s retail (new re-designed board): http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/poolsupplies/saltcellreplacements/products/GLX-PCB-RITE.htm At this point, I know the salt level is OK…3300 PPM as testes at the pool store. Head over to YouTube. Russell. It was going to cost me $400+ for a service call and new board. So maybe the no cell power was affecting my cell. Somewhat small, but there. I am trying to order the VAristor from digikey but I live in a small town in costa rica with lousy mail service and I can’t get through their system. The one step that was hard for us was removing the differnt connectors from the main PCB. I ordered a replacement board and am waiting for it to arrive. Unit is back up and running fine. Just for fun, I cleaned my cell (high pressure rinse – no acid bath) and put it back “upside down” and it works just fine. Question? If your rectifiers are properly positioned with the cutouts in the lower right corners, the orange wire goes on the upper right post of the rectifier closer to the PCB. Cut power to the box (not just IN the box) to avoid all possibilities of electrocution. If they flow solder, it’s much lower temperature and I’ve seen other problems like this on automotive circuit boards. Issue started when the Aqua Rite was power cycling on and off, so was not generating chlorine. So you have to plug your old display board into the new board so I guess that would rule out the display board. I have to get a ROUNDTUIT every once-in-a-while! Still no voltage to display pcb. If you are generating chlorine, your volts/amps/salt are all within normal ranges, your flow light is out, and the only lights on are power and generating – nope – no board issue! I turn the switch to “off” then back to “Auto” and a few seconds and I hear the K1 relay kick on and low an behold the LED display shows 6 amps of current and -4100 instant salt level. were can i order SL322R025 by AMETHERM from? Any ideas on a fix for this????. I haven’t had failures in my AquaLink, but have had to replace a $600 heater control board a while back. SL32 2R025d. Thanks again. The pictures are perfect (the pictures looks like they were taken at my house!). As I understand, there should be +5.0vdc on those pins starting from the left. Even if you spray off your filter, oils continue to accumulate in the fabric. Or if ours was an SL32 we should stick with that? When I turned on the power, the varistor (RZ2) blew instantly. Does it matter if the part # is facing upward? I think the bloodshot eyes are from the lack of salt in “regular” pools. They wanted $50 bucks for UPS overnight and $22 for 2 Day. At a loss at the moment. The first time I did it I made a very small and delicate puddle and it ended up lasting only about a week before the varistor fell off. Check for continuity on your SOLDER job, not on the pins of the varistor. If you look at the pictures, the Varistor is highlighted with a yellow circle on one picture and the word “Varistor” is in yellow on another picture. There are good additions to the information about resetting/recalibrating the unit. http://www.poolpartsonline.com/popup.aspx?src=wolthuis.aspx%3fvariantid%3d143804%26size%3dlarge. The display is telling me the ppm is 4100, so I’m deducing I don’t need salt, but I tested the water, it has little to no chlorine. Posted by Russell Wright on August 23, 2009. So I DON’T have any insider info. Every time you expose the plates to acid, you eat off the top layer of ruthenium. Wish List Compare. Hayward GLX-PCB-DSP Aqua Rite Digital Display Board. And excellent described, with the pictures….! It generates chlorine for a few hours, then stops and all the display lights come on, including low salt, inspect cell, etc. Sometimes the current inrush limiter can go bad and there are not many physical signs. Yikes, talk about cloudy! See response below: Hi, this is not a problem that we are aware of. Desoto….. Heres what a Loni said on a reply to to Dec 9th, 2009 comment above. Thank you for your suggestion. Russell can chalk up another happily repaired user. 5. Not a big deal, as all the connections are conveniently identified by color on the PCB (printed circuit board). After installing this newer circuit board T-CELL-3 and T-CELL-9 salt cells can be used for pools under 40,000 gallons. I managed to check the salt using the instant salt procedure which told me the salt leave was -3400 but when it went to the normal reading it said 1700. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (Please pardon the shameless plug for how I conduct MY business!). The Panel (Aqua Logic) shows “No Cell Power”. Question – I soldered the thermistor and everything appears to be working correctly, BUT the thermistor is VERY hot. can anybody tell me the part number of U6 and U7. It cost more in parts than what you can buy new. I went on line ande found your post and gave me all the information that I needed to replace it. Could you sell me one of theM. AndyW, I’ve tried pretty much everything you’ve suggested. Whenever the system is down, if the chlorine runs low you need to add more manually. Black to Ground: .185 Orange to Red: 56.1 K ohms When spraying doesn’t get it all out (hold it up to the sun, look through it, and wiggle it back and forth – it should be so clean that all you see are the plates hanging down), you’ll need to acid wash it. I seem to always have a few small spots of algae, particularly by the steps where the cleaner has a problem doing its job. You are the man! Replacement parts for the Aqua Rite Chlorinator PC Board after parts fail due to a large power surge. So, I proceeded to remove the board. If anyone needs the part number from digikey, it’s 570-1062-ND, CURRENT LIMITER INRUSH 2 OHM 25A You should remove the cell every 2-3 weeks, inspect it (hold it to the sun and move it back and forth making sure you can CLEARLY see all the way through each blade), and spray off any deposits with a good nozzle on your garden hose. I decided it was most likely the board so went on the hunt for an affordable replacement. The current readings on the panel (after varistor was replaced) are: Salt: 9.90 Dude, mine went out during a t-storm. Thanks. Nope. There are plenty of instructional videos on soldering and de-soldering. I just wanted to say THANK YOU and let people know that I had the same problem with my Goldline Aqua Rite not having any lights on. The pool will show zero chlorine on a strip test after a couple days in auto. I can’t believe how easy it was and saved me $$$$. Thanks! Took longer to clean the dust off my soldeing iron than performing the repairs. If you still have the old flow switch, shut down your system, and insert it where the new flow switch is to plug the hole. By the way, the circuit involved is to a GFI for the pool light. Hi I just wish you pointed out the item you replaced, with an arrow, I have also replaced several items on our system, the large motor is also very easy to replace but if you need it in a hurry it will cost you , around $200 you can get it online for 1/2 price , but ours went bad during cold weather so i needed it same day , the only hard part is getting the impeller off. Sounds interesting, but I’m sure they’ve done some work on the controller to make it work well. Thank you! Thank you!! I talked to goldline and they said there was a board problem cause it says, “cell power error”. I’m not an electrical engineer or even an electronics tech, but I’d be leery of putting the “wrong” one on the right board. The only lights that lit up were the Inspect Cell LED for one flash and the No Flow LED for about one minute before going out. You’ll get a lower salt reading if the cell has been dry as soon as it starts up. Any other suggestions? Rigged up an outdoor shower by connecting one of those hand-held telephone shower things at a hose bib. My readings say 3400, but pinch a penny said 7900. Our water has a high sodium content to begin with so every July/ August i have this problem. It’s just dying. 1 3 3 570-1062-ND SL32 2R02 2.69000 $8.07. I am fixin to order one but I am wondering if it could be the transformer instead . I can’t believe that the original post could have been an exact duplicate of what happened to my AquaRite board. It has a Hayward Super Pump, 1.5 HP, and AquaRite Electronic Chlorine Generator Panel. I ordered a couple new varistor parts from DigiKey and I plan to remove the old part and replace. “My hat’s off to you” for the inexpensive fix. Thanks, I have an eight year old Aqua Rite T-15 system and was having check salt and check cell on constantly with no generation. Plus, if I replace the IntelliTouch PCB, I have to re-program the entire system – not good. Thanks for any help. We recommend using a pair of needle nose pliers. I don’t know whether or not using the AS model would work/fit/cause any issues. the varsitor fix prior to purchasing) and the power light/gernerating etc. If only 120V are supplied to the board, it’s impossible for it to get 240V! But lights are not my strong suit. Thanks. Then remove the display by carefully pulling it out towards you. Of course: cut power first, I’m not liable, blah, blah, blah. My Aqua Rite panel flashes all red lights for ‘Inspect Cell’, ‘No Flow’, ‘Low salt’, ‘High salt’. What is the “correct” setting supposed to be? I was also able to calibrate my Aqua Rite, but it was only to switch off, Auto, to super chlorinate, back to Auto. So far I’ve left it alone. I guess I expect an expensive piece of machinery like this to be like a Toyota…it should just work (at least that’s my experience). I am having a hard time finding a varistor to order without doing bulk quantities. Russell, your scenario is matching my aqua rite problem, I am also in Texas and think this was power related. Is that normal? Anthony, is it possible that your system isn’t running at the same flow rate that it used to? $6 for the part & $20 for the solder job. With the unit in then off position the unit continued to read 1700 when I switch it to the on position it will generator for a few seconds then I get the -pcb- error again. If you don’t know how to solder, I’d recommend finding a friend who does…or look on YouTube for some good instructional videos. I always tell customers that you should see a marked improvement in your salt level after adding just one bag of salt (our pools are small here in Florida), and allowing up to one week for it to all dissolve properly unless you want to run it for 2-3 days straight. I thought a give it a try, but when the old part wouldn’t come loose, we went to a friend who replaced it over a glass of wine. I have a similar problem. Have you cleaned your cell recently? So for a total cost of $8.34 from Digi-Key, I had the unit back up and running. when i switch to servie the generating light comes on can any one help? Something as simple as a dirty filter could cause this. However, if you have a rev 1.40 or earlier keep reading (no revs released between 1.40 and 1.50). My Aqua Rite board (GLX-PCB-RITE) doesn’t look exactly like what is in your picture. Did like everyone else here…called Goldine this morning at 830..sure enough….”Why Mr. Valentine you have a bad board, you can replace board or entire box”. Only problem with this is that it costs a bundle to re-balance the pool each time I do it but I did replace 10,000 gallons. They had 8pcs. Johnny Ure. And of course you checked the incoming power for proper voltage? You should not use straight acid to clean a cell, and -I- would not recommend letting it sit in a straight acid solution for an hour. Judging by the number of responses you’ve had your blog has saved a lot of people a lot of money. Happened 4x that I can recall. If they don’t, I tell them to have their salt checked at their local pool store before they add more to make sure the unit is operating properly. Or do I just replace the big 2R025 varistor? “Blue wire” is a term for a piece of wire used to replace the broken or burnt etch. The varistor replacement is usually required when you have no power…basically it’s dead. should I get that also? GLX-PCB-DSP. My question is that I noticed that he new varistor is running really hot. A quick thanks for this info. MOUSER & a couple others did not carry it. Definitely need to work on my soldering skills, but it was good enough. I received the same response from Goldline and my local pool store, “you need a new board”. This morning the salt level showed 2600, and although the “generating” light was solid green, “check salt” and “inspect cell” were blinking. Worked great after the repair. (Grabbed 2…..on the chance that I destroyed one in my attempt to install – or for future use!) Googling) was done to locate the the part number of the varistors…yes, there are more than one! I am concerned the varistor will burn out again getting so hot, does it have anything to do with the high salt and still generating? (Check for any algae and eliminate before re-filling.) COMPOOL/PENTAIR PC BOARD REPAIR CP2000 LX-10 Timemaster LX-100 CP3000 CP3800 series IntelliTouch Price per repaired PC Board - $150.00 . Find your Aqua Rite electronic chlorine generator isn't working properly and/or has no indicator lights? The helpful rep walked me through pushing the little test button to the left of the LCD display and I read him the readings it displayed. The reading is 2.1 amps and my pool is turning green so I am assuming it is not producing enough chlorine. A bad flow switch, or even a NO FLOW situation will not cause the unit to cycle. After about ten minutes, the “Pcb” would come back. I will post back results after the cell checking and cleaning if needed and flow sensor switch replacement. I’m wandering if there’s another damaged part or maybe the transformer is bad. There is no error messages on the display. I have an Aqua Rite from Hayward, an IntelliTouch System i5 from Pentair, a titanium Salt Cell from CompuPool that is ~6 months old, and a Control Pad (hard-wired) in the house). The component was not on the lower left as I said, but the lower right hand side, precisely where the smoke came out. Removing and reinspecting the varistor and the board. They said that I need a new control box. I eventually called out a trusted electrician to check for current coming from the electrical panel, PCB and transistor – all working well. How old is your cell and is it clean? I checked the varistor and it reads 2.4 ohms which is at the top end of the 2.0 +- 20% value from its print online. Many thanks for sharing the information and for giving great pictures to follow. Hi Russell, Pull off the bottom one, labeled J4, and you’ve just told the board there’s a T-Cell-5 attached (the two dots represent the UNjumpered pins). It was hard to see. I have a Blue Haven (Aqua Rite)Smartpure with the GLX-Cell-5-W Turbo cell. If you are still having problems, reply again and I’ll tell you where to send pics so I can better assist you. I also had the same problem with all the lights off on my unit. All appears normal, but no matter what the percent knob is set at, the voltage remains at 33 and amps at zero. Any ideas? Nope. Still have the “no flow” condition.

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